Tuesday, 11 June 2013

Fire and light

 

 

 jane mcilleron

One of the media available to jewellers is vitreous enamel. 


I have done very little enamelling, but it appeals to me: the possibilities for layering, and for variations in translucency, with completely transparent enamel allowing light to reflect off the metal underneath, and opaque obscuring it entirely.
Like any medium, it is as open to use in a multitude of ways, and I don't think there can be anyone who likes them all.

Enamel is glass that is fused onto metal by melting (firing) it. It may be opaque or transparent, or somewhere in between (opalescent). It is coloured by the addition of minute amounts of elements and compounds in careful combinations. The melting point of the glass has to be lower than that of the metal, and the relative melting points of the various enamels have to be taken into consideration when using more than one. The rate and extent at which the glass contracts as it cools has to be as close as possible to that of the metal it is fused to.




It is quite a demanding medium. It is relatively easy to enamel something flat in one colour, but every variation after that makes it more difficult. Most enamels are built up of numerous layers, each fired before the next is added.


Details of Japanese enameled vessels from the collection of Stephen W.Fischer.

 Enameling started many centuries ago, and examples are found from Mycenae and Egypt. In the last few decades of the 19th century and the first few of the 20th centuty Japan produced enamelled objects, mostly vessels, of extraordinary virtuosity, and at about the same time Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellers in the West used it widely and with great skill. One the most famous artists from this time was Rene Lalique, in France.
Two of Lalique's magnificent pieces






Fetish pin by William Harper
Pendant by William Harper
A contemporary artist well known in the USA for his work in enamel is William Harper. He uses brilliant and complex arrangements of colour and texture, and incorporates stones, pearls and other materials in very interesting ways. His work is evocative of artifacts with esoteric purposes.













Pin by Jamie Bennet
Another prominent American in the field is Jamie Bennet, whose experimental enameling on three dimensional electroformed shapes attracted much attention.




















Pin by Jamie Bennet



Although vitreous enamel is increasingly being replaced by "cold enamel" (actually epoxy resin) in commercial jewellery, because it is so much easier and less risky, contemporary enamel seems to be thriving in Europe and the USA.

Rattle Brooch by Angela Gerhard


Jessica Calderwood

Montse Basora

Ruth Ball Design

Sandra Zilker

Appreciation of it in South Africa appears to be limited at present, but with growing awareness of art and design, that could change.




Sunday, 26 May 2013

inside my jewellery box

Stories of stones & jewels & maybe a ballerina  
by Adi Cloete


Remember the excitement you felt when you got the chance to look inside your mother or granny's jewellery box? Feeling like you found treasure!
And your jewellery box that played music while a ballerina would spin around and around. Magical childhood memories getting lost somewhere between the ballerina and the little objects of intrigue.

Well, it's still exciting to peek into people's jewellery boxes.Especially when the jewellery box belongs to someone with a passionate jewellery heart. 

My quest takes me to visit Karin in District Six on a very windy afternoon. In the lounge we unpack all the little boxes and discover a collection of necklaces, rings and earrings, which she had collected since all her jewellery was stolen in 2007.
Apart from the jewellery that she wore on the day of the break-in, and a few odds and ends they didn't notice, her entire jewellery collection was stolen. 

About 5 years after that she was in a shop in Long Street browsing with a friend, when she looked down and there was a ring of hers in the showcase! 
It was the very first ring that she had commissioned for herself in 1994. An amethyst ring made by Mike Cope. The stone was given to her by an old friend and comes from Rio. She had carried it around in her purse for about 10 years(!) before having a ring made. She immediately told Honest John, the shop owner, that that ring belonged to her. After explaining when and how she had lost it, he returned her ring to her.
The ring that came home :)
Karin's first commissioned ring ever, by Mike Cope

Here are some of the pieces that emerged from Karin's treasure boxes. 


flowers for the ears
left: silver quartet of Sedum bloom earrings bought on etsy made by Karena of Tundra Dear, with silver clay  and Tourmalines. 
middle: Silver protea flower earrings by Liz Dunstan (Paarl)

right: silver and Peridot flower earrings by Jane Eppel (Cape Town)

turquoise bird collection
The turquoise comes from the Royston mine in Nevada and was bought online from davidjamescabs on etsy.  Mike Cope was then commissioned to make the pendant and the small stones were added to the earrings which had been bought years earlier from him.


Kitty jewls! 
The lost-wax pendant was bought on ebay. We discovered that on the back there is an inscription 'ps relax'.
The silver "Cubist Cat" cloisonne earrings designed by Sue Coccia, were also bought on ebay.

a love of birds
This beautiful bracelet expresses Karin's love of birds and was commissioned by her as a special 50th birthday gift. The gold used was a golden chain gifted from her mother.
Liz Dunstan designed & made it and silver, gold and Amethyst was used.

birdies to adorn the hand 
by Firepetals with silver, bronze & a tourmaline.

Silver & opal watch bought from Alon Shina in the Waterfront.


pebbles, petals and moonstone
left: silver bangle bought from the Antique Market for a wonderful R300!


middle: Silver & Moonstone ring bought online.

right: Silver Pebble and Labradorite pendant by Giselle Petty (Cape Town)
Fab Flower
 Made by Liz Morell from East London, with silver and Tourmalinated quartz beads.

     pendants connected to other parts of the world
left: Silver cross pendant from sub-Saharan desert Tuareg tribe, traditionally used as a talisman against the evil eye and considered a powerful good luck charm
middle :Frida Kahlo picture frame pendant from Mexico, a gift sent from a friend in San Diego

right: Tuli Maori tribal symbol pendant made by Liz Dunstan, symbolizing 'The Bird Messenger'

locket ring
Karin bought this Tree of Life locket ring as a gift for her niece in New York...who still has to receive it :)
The ring was made by Giselle Petty with silver and 18ct gold detail.



lovely labradorite 
Bought from Monique Huppertz at Design Indaba in 2007.
This necklace is made with silver, carved ebony and beautiful large labradorite pebbles.

brooches
left: Karin bought this gecko brooch in Alice Springs on her first trip to Australia to visit her sisters. It is oxidized silver with yellow gold discs.
middle: another fabulous Mike Cope piece! a Buddha brooch with silver & paua shell inlay. The brooch was actually made for a friend of Karin who then left it in her care while she was traveling, and in the end gifted it to her.
right: a brooch that belonged to Karin's Grandmother, made with silver, onyx and marcasite. 
a favourite combo
These silver pin cushion earrings by Firepetals and silver circle pendant with fabric inlay from Liz Dunstan is often worn together and a firm favourite! And for the record: Karin bought the first pair of pin cushion earrings in this range.

Mike Cope: another favourite
Orb locket with a cabochon moonstone and radiant cut garnet.  
Karin commissioned Meagan Meredith to custom make a chain for this piece after seeing a beautiful chain on Meagan's Frog Prince necklace.
and more Mike...
2 double sided pendants.
Carved silver tree holding a magnificent Labradorite
 & a silver disc pendant with engraved patterns inspired by Aboriginal songlines or dreaming tracks. 
3 gorgeous Mike Cope rings - daisies from Papkuilsfontein on the left with silver and 18ct detail, a silver vine leaf design with oval garnet, and a stunning Lapis Lazuli from Afghanistan in an Egyptian inspired design.
a Phoenix pendant and Seraphinite pendant- a heart chakra gemstone - both also by Mike Cope



chrysocolla pendant
Karin bought this beautiful chrysocolla from Lorna  Quinton, one of the most talented gemstone cutters in Cape Town, and then asked Liz Dunstan to make the pendant of which the bail can clip open and closed.
It is worn mostly on a string of carved jet beads.

last but not the least
2 rings that Karin made! Organic silver signet rings with a lotus and a bird etched onto them.


And so: a glimpse of 37 pieces, as part of Karin's jewellery collection.
What stood out to me through discovering all the stories surrounding her jewellery, is her love, joy and excitement about jewellery. It's not just about collecting jewellery. It is also the story of each piece, the stones and the goldsmith that made it,that contributes to  the magic. It is all those layers that Karin values and treasures.    
I think the chances of seeing Karin un-bejewelled would be rare and completely out of character!

Thursday, 16 May 2013

Netsuke- Japan's Miniature Treasures

 
 
NETSUKE
                                                                  
As a little girl I loved collecting precious miniatures to display in my printers tray. I later discovered Netsuke and they have fascinated me ever since. The article below is written by Helga L. Zipser who has been in the antique business for 30 years. She owns La Petite Galerie, Inc in Tampa, Florida and she specilaizes in European porcelain, furniture, paintings, silver and glass. Her writing descibes and details what Netsukes are and their history.

Netsuke is a uniquely Japanese art form. These superb little objects of wood, ivory and ceramics, as well as dozens of other materials, tell the story of Japan from earliest times. Here we find the peasant, the fisherman, the beggar rubbing shoulders with the scholar, the samurai, the warrior, as well as an enchanting collection of animals, fish, insects and benign and ferocious gods. Also represented are objects of daily living, eggplants, tea bowls, flowers. The mythology as well as the various religions of Japan from Buddhism to Shintoism are represented in netsuke form.

Considering the great interest of netsuke in the United States and Europe, very little is actually known of the beginning of these miniature carvings. It is certain that netsuke (literal translation: to attach the root) came into existence as early as the 15th - 16th century. As the Japanese had no pockets intheir kimonos, they had to find a method to carry small belongings, and a convenient way was a leather pouch attached to long double strings and pulled through the obi (a long sash or belt which was worn around the kimono). The netsuke, which always has openings through which the string passes, acted as a toggle, holding the pouch in place. Early netsuke were purely utilitarian, being fashioned of small stones, pieces of bamboo and other woods, shells and gourds. The pouch was mainly used for tobacco, whereas another implement, a small box of either three or five compartments, called an inro, was used for medicines. Sometimes these two items were carried together and suspended from the same netsuke. About 100 years later the Japanese used the ojime bead which acted much like our watch chain slide and kept the inro from opening or turning.

A typical katabori netsuke depicting a cockerel in wood. Unsigned, 19th century. 4.2 cm.

There are several types of netsuke of which the katabori, a completely carved three dimensional work of art, is the most sought after by collectors. A kagamibuta is a bowl shaped netsuke with a metal lid, sometimes decorated, sometimes plain. This was most often used with the tobacco pouch as an ash container. Manju netsuke are round and flat and resemble a button. In Japan a manju is a flat, round rice cake. They can be solid ivory or wood, or beautifully carved and reticulated. This latter type is called a ryusa netsuke. Sashi netsuke are elongated Katabori pieces.

Netsuke can be carved of different materials; ivory and wood being the most popular. They can also be fashioned from horn, tortoise shell, metal or ceramics. They are classified by collectors according to age, subject matter, origin, style, carver or school. Unfortunately, we don't have the space to go into the many different subjects and designs. Suffice to say that these dear little figures tell us a story. Study the faces of the people, animals, gods and devils and you will see a full range of human emotion; joy, sadness, distress, frustration, anger and love. Inspiration for early netsuke came from the Chinese. Compare the Chinese foo dog to the Japanese shishi and you will at once see the similarity. As netsuke art became more sophisticated the carvers reached back into their rich history, religion and fables as well as every day life, for inspiration. We now find the kabuki entertainer, the noh mask, the sumo wrestler, the kappa (water imp) and Raijin, the god of thunder. Although women are in the minority when it comes to netsuke art, we still find them represented. The pearl diver comes to mind, as well as the mermaid, a mother and her baby, a beggar woman and of course, Okame (goddess of mirth) who is always represented with her serene, happy face.

There were thousands of netsuke carvers and to identify them takes special skill and patience since some of them have identical names. The history of netsuke is usually divided into three periods: the early, middle and late periods.

The early period
(17th through early 19th century)

During this time the subject matter came mainly from the Chinese, and netsuke portraying Chinese legend, history and customs were greatly admired by the Japanese. The earliest of the carvers never signed their pieces. Some of the outstanding carvers of the latter part of this period were Masanao, Tomatada and Okatomo (all from the Kyoto area).

An ivory netsuke of a rain dragon. 19th century - unsigned.

The middle period
(most of the 19th century)

Netsuke carving came into its own during this time. Many of the artists now had influential patrons. They trained and schooled other carvers. During the middle period, the netsuke carver perfected his art, concentrating on Japanese themes, striving for excellence of design and execution and using materials of tremendous variety. Some carvers of this period were Mitsuhiro, Masakazu, Kokusai and Kaigyokusai.

A ceramic netsuke of a badger holding a saki container. Signed Ogata Kazuhei, late 19th - early 20th century.

The late period
(late 19th and early 20th century)

During the latter part of the 19th century Western influence and style were introduced to Japan after two centuries of isolation. European merchants clamored for Japanese wares, good, bad and indifferent. The excellence of netsuke carving diminished, but the little carved objects found great favor with the foreigners who took them back to the West. With the advent of Western style clothes in Japan, the netsuke lost its practical purpose as a toggle and became strictly an art form. Among outstanding carvers of this period were Tokoku and Sosui.

Netsuke are popular collector's items today, treasured both by the Japanese and Westerners. A really good netsuke seldom shows up at a flea market or general antiques shop. People interested in learning about netsuke would do well to seek the advice of a knowledgeable dealer or collector. Most of the netsuke being sold are of poor quality, flat and lifeless. Although some are carved in Japan, most originate in Hong Kong and some are not even ivory.

A seated rat in wood by Masanao of Kyoto. 18th century.
There are some fine books written on netsuke collecting, both in Japan and in the West. Here are a few titles of books you might want to locate: "Netsuke, Familiar and Unfamiliar", by Raymond Bushell, "The Netsuke Handbook by Ueda Reikichi", by Raymond Bushell and "An Introduction of Netsuke", by Joe Earle. It is often worth trying the public library or a good book dealer for more information.

Last, but not least, we should mention the contemporary netsuke. Although new, some of these are extremely well carved and beautiful. These netsuke are strictly works of art and, as such, command high prices, sometimes costing more than a fine antique.

Mermaid with coral ball. Ivory - Sumi, circa 1985.


A seated Daruma emerging from a nine year meditation, carved in wood with inlays. Koju (school of Tokoku), late 19th century.

Prices of fine netsuke range from several hundred to thousands of dollars. Before investing, study, read, look, feel. Learn about damage and repairs. Buy one good netsuke rather than five average ones. Signatures are not as important as good carving and charming subject matter. Hold a netsuke in your hand and feel the warmth of the wood admire the glow of the ivory. Explore the world of netsuke. You will most certainly fall in love and it is a lifetime love affair.

Monday, 29 April 2013

Maintaining the well, or: when water levels are low


Some years ago I thoroughly engaged with Julia Cameron’s The Artist’s Way (Pan Books: 1993), a stimulating work book for introspective creatives. One of the main concepts I internalized whilst working through the material is the notion of scooping from a pond or well when it comes to being creative. How well the pond it stocked and taken care of directly relates to the amount and quality of one’s creative output – an idea that I increasingly believe in. With my growing awareness of the relation between input and output, however, also comes an ever increasing cognizance of the resulting responsibility towards myself: If I am to respect my creativity, I better look after myself (and my pond) appropriately.

Despite the above realization I often catch myself doing anything but attending to the well I rely on. Getting bogged down by multiple (often self-induced) demands on my time and energy periodically results firstly in a state of “low water levels” - an analogy introduced to me by a once-close friend, and secondly a depleted pond. With lower water levels in a stream, even the smallest rocks become visible, if not stick out. Consequently, it becomes easy to focus on them, rather than on the surrounding water. Similarly, when “water levels are low” in terms of a personal state, one tends to focus on those (more or less ever-present) niggles which inevitably form part of one’s personality, habits and reality, often resulting in a negative feedback loop: already limited energy is spent to focus on something negative, which depletes energy levels even further.

Since the pond or well is fed by a “water stream” (i.e. the well represents an accumulation and synergy of all its influx), it does not take long for the pond to become stale and depleted when “water levels are low”, thereby jeopardizing the last and most important resort from which I as a creative person draw. To prevent (or more realistically: counter-act) the eventual depletion of the well I try to remind myself of what it takes to “raise my water levels” as soon as I notice the “stones appearing”, thus becoming aware again of what I owe myself:

Moments of happiness, inspiration, balance and freedom

… Going for a 05:30am run with the moon still up, amongst porcupines, buck and owls, revelling in the fresh morning air. Enjoying the silence, settling into a perfect rhythm, working in harmony with the body until there is complete, wholesome tiredness. …

… Connecting with people through meaningful interactions, sharing insights, engaging in philosophical discussions, exploring deeper levels of being and stimulating intellectual agility. …

… Enjoying culinary creations and experiences in good company, relaxing after achieving whatever has been aimed for, laughing, sharing, being (care)free. …

… Engaging all my senses to observe nature in all its forms – admiring colour, beauty, symmetry, precision and order; caressing textures and patterns. …

… Enjoying the simplicity of living outdoors when camping, hiking and touring. No rush, no clock to watch, no people. Life is simple, elemental and non-contradictory as one becomes part of a bigger whole. …

… Feeling complete in wide, empty spaces. Silence. Peace. A multitude of textures, patterns, colours and moods, nothing is out of place. Here my spirit can truly soar. …

Whilst it is not usually possible to create these moments of happiness, inspiration and balance in abundance, I remind myself that there are numerous tiny instances of them in any day – especially when one succeeds to live in the moment completely, thereby eliminating the constantly nagging thoughts about the next items on the to-do list, or the next appointment, or the next task ahead. Being without these deliberations even for a short while is truly liberating.
 
Moments of carefree happiness. Photos: (c) Angela & Mathias Tölken
 

Outdoor moments. Photos: (c) Angela & Mathias Tölken


The fascination of nature. Photos: (c) Angela & Mathias Tölken
 
by AnGela

Wednesday, 17 April 2013

SACRED GEOMETRY by Giselle Petty




The word ‘Geo-Metry’ literally means the measurement of the world. Geometry is thought of as sacred when it is used as a metaphorical bridge in understanding, exploring or representing the nature of consciousness and existence. As a result the application of Sacred Geometry in association with spiritual idea and the worship of deity can be found in abundance in both our ancient and most recent culture.

Sacred Geometry is the science and awareness of the structure of form understood as the vessel for the consciousness and intelligence of the Universal Mind. Its forms encapsulate self-existing knowledge of universal laws. That which exists does so through a geometric template that is primarily formed by the meditation of the Universal Mind and secondarily by the myriad pools of collective mind that comprise galaxies, stars, worlds and species. In this way the universe we know exists in ratios of geometry on an infinite scale “As Above, So Below”, and as such all things can be understood through number. “All is Number” Pythagoras


Sacred Geometry charts the unfolding of number in space. The basic journey is from the single point, into line, out the plane, through to the third dimension and beyond, eventually returning to the point again, all the time watching waht happens along the way.
Number, Music, Geometry and Cosmology are the four great Liberal Arts of the ancient world. These are simple universla languages, as relevant today as they have always beeen, and still found in all sciences and cultures without disagreement.

Circles produce perfect triangles and hexagons. The circle also spins to become a sphere. Something circular remains essentially circular. The circle is the shape traditionally assigned to the Heavens, and the square to the Earth. When these two shapes are unified by being made equal in area or perimeter it is referred to as 'squaring the circle', meaning that Heaven and Earth, or Spirit and Matter, are symbolically combined, or married.

 The triangle produces a fourth point at an equal distance from the other three to produce a tetrahedron. One equilateral triangle has made three more. The square lifts a second square away from itself until another four squares are formed and a cube is created..
The triangle may be said to represent Man, when pointing up , and Woman, when pointing down.



The six points of the hexagon give rise to a pattern forming six circles a round one. This is a theme which the Old Testament of the Bible opens on, witht he six days of work and the seventh day of rest.
As one produces six, so six produces twelve. The arms of the six-pointed star extend to intersect the outer rims of the six circles to form a perfect overall division of space into twelve parts. The perfect twelve-sided polygon is called a dodecagon, which means 'twelve-sided'.

 
 
A dodecogan is made from six sqaures and six equilateral triangles fitted around a hexagon, in addition the twelve divides into three, four, and six as four triangles, three squares or two hexagons.Twelve is the number which fits around one in three dimensions in the same way that six fits around one in two dimensions. The New Testament is a story of a teacher with twelve disciples.

Certain numbers like each other. If the Moon's radius is three then the Earht's is eleven. The portal door of Gerum Church in Gothland, Sweden (below) clearly shows a deliberate three by eleven. Three elevens are thirty three and Irish and Norse myths are filled with tales of 33 warriors. Jesus is reborn at 33, and from any given place on Earth, the Sun takes 33 years before it rises exactly over the same point ona distant horizon.

THE CANON the numbers of the heavens and earth
 
 
There is perhaps no more famous a geometric object on Earth than the Great Pyramid at Giza, Egypt with it's strange passages and enigmatic chambers. 'Geometry' means 'Earth Measure' and the Pyramid functons as a ridiculously accurate sundial, observatory, surveyor's tool and repository for standard weights and measures. It's perimeter is exactly half a degree of equatorial latitude.

PYRAMID PIE the marriage of everything

Geometry is 'number inspace', music is 'number in time'. Musical intervals , like geometrical proportions, always involve two elements in a certain ratio: two string-lengths, two periods (lengths of time) or two frequencies (beats per length of time).Harmonic musical intervals can be seen as geometrical shapes.



The Flower of Life

The Flower of Life is a pattern of exquisite balance and symmetry. It is the mother pattern from which all other forms of nature’s geometry emerge. It is this fact that gives it its name. Within it can be found such forms as Metatron’s Cube, the Perfect Solids and the Runes. It has been known and studied for thousands of years by our most advanced cultures. The oldest known example of the Flower of Life is found in the Temple of Osiris in Abydos, Egypt. It has also been found in China, in spherical form (3D), under the feet of dragon statues in the Forbidden City of Beijing.

The Flower of Life is central to the study of Sacred Geometry. Within it are found volumes of universal knowledge pertaining to the vehicle of life and the Universal Mind. It is because of this access to such knowledge that the Flower of Life was kept secret and given only to advanced initiates of Mystery Schools such as that of the Ancient Egyptian pyramid builders. Today it’s trove of secrets is laid open for all to contemplate.

The Flower of Life is a geometrical pattern composed of many circles. All the circles are evenly spaced and of the same size. They overlap in a manner which forms a hexagonal lattice. It is usually represented by one central circle with six surrounding it, followed by a further twelve circles. Nineteen circles in all, although it can be considered to have infinite layers. In the terms of sacred geometry circles are considered feminine. It is worth considering that the above image is two dimensional, that a better understanding of its complexity can be gained through seeing all the circles as interlocking spheres. Meditating on this can be highly fruitful.
 
The above has been quoted from Sacred Geometry written and illustrated by Miranda Lundy
 
Here are some images of jewellery inspired by Sacred Geometry:
 
A range of handsawn Sterling Silver and Copper pendants by Giselle Petty


Jewellery By Firepetals